Zzzzuni
At the IACP conference a few months ago, a single restaurant kept coming up in conversation. It seemed like the air was practically buzzing and hissing with this name as people murmured it back and forth in seminars, networking events, and happy hours.
That restaurant was Zuni.
Until last month, my only encounter with the food of the magical Zuni was in aromatic form. Specifically, I knew the smell of Zuni’s famous roast chicken with bread salad because my lovely friend in France made it one evening in her tiny portable oven while we were both recovering from a shared bout of food poisoning. Nothing like foodborne bacteria and Vin Diesel movies to bring two gals together. At that point I was still too green around the gills to actually eat, but it smelled delish.
When I moved to San Francisco, I really was more interested in trying Zuni than in unpacking my bags, but life got in the way. Eventually I got there with Alison, my oldest friend from childhood. We grew up about half a mile apart and used to meet up at the mid-point between our houses. Now we’ve ended up across the country together, still living about half a mile apart, and still meeting up with each other at the mid-point between our apartments. Thankfully, many other things about us have changed over the years (no more pastel scrunchies, braces, or in my case, permed hair matched with dangly tropical fish earrings).
So, Zuni. I had been forewarned. In spite of all the buzzing at IACP, a subsequent informal survey of the trustworthy eaters in my life produced the occasional rave, but more frequently a generous helping of apathy. “Inconsistent” and “underwhelming” were two common descriptions.
Atmospherically speaking, I give Zuni very high marks. It didn’t hurt that we had a fabulous table next to a big window looking out on Market St., right in the center of the action. The space is open, airy and bustling. I remember wood and white, and a pretty oyster bar.
I also give it a good grade for people-watching potential. It does feel like a generous slice of San Francisco life -- fashionably casual, quirky, sophisticated, but not super snooty. In fact, food aside, to me Zuni exuded a rich, well-loved feeling that you can’t construct in a place. It just has to happen.
But then the food happened. What can I say? I wanted to love it, I really did. I wanted to adopt Zuni and take it to meet my friends and relatives when they come from out of town looking for a representative San Francisco gustatory experience. But dinner was a big, mouth-wide-open yaaaawwwwnnn. A starter of ho hum anchovies (or were they sardines? It was a few weeks back...), olive oil and celery that didn’t taste like much. Stuffed squash blossoms that also didn’t taste like much. A pleasant piece of pork rubbed with a nice crust of dried orange, chilies and spices, on a lukewarm plate with some blah-tasting beans. The ideas were there and it all sounded great on paper…but somehow it just didn’t have any heart.

Yeah, we didn't order the roast chicken. We debated over it, but when we asked the server she said, "Well, it's good, but in the end, it's a roast chicken. If you want adventure, order something else." Fair enough. Also, apparently we made a grave mistake by not ordering any oysters. I am told that they are delicious at Zuni. Duly noted.

By this point, I was feeling a little deflated. And then… dessert arrived with a capital D. It was simple, perfectly executed, gorgeous. A nectarine tart and a nice deep dish of espresso granita layered with robust poofs of whipped cream. I doubt I will ever have another granita that wows me as much as that one did. Come to think of it, granita had never once wowed me until Zuni's version crunched under my spoon.
After dinner, we headed around the corner to Hotel Biron, the first wine bar I've visited in this city. We settled into our table with lovely, giant glasses of red and kept the conversation going. As far as I'm concerned, my wine bar search began and ended with Hotel Biron. It felt like a cozy little cave, complete with perfect music and a cute, hipster guy behind the bar.
After our topsy turvy dinner, I'm not yet prepared to strike Zuni off the master mental restaurant list that constantly hums in my head. Problem is, there are so many intriguing places to try in San Francisco that it may take a long time for me to get back there. But next time I do, that damned roasted chicken and oysters will be on my order. Then we'll see whether there's anything worth kvetching about.
That restaurant was Zuni.
Until last month, my only encounter with the food of the magical Zuni was in aromatic form. Specifically, I knew the smell of Zuni’s famous roast chicken with bread salad because my lovely friend in France made it one evening in her tiny portable oven while we were both recovering from a shared bout of food poisoning. Nothing like foodborne bacteria and Vin Diesel movies to bring two gals together. At that point I was still too green around the gills to actually eat, but it smelled delish.
When I moved to San Francisco, I really was more interested in trying Zuni than in unpacking my bags, but life got in the way. Eventually I got there with Alison, my oldest friend from childhood. We grew up about half a mile apart and used to meet up at the mid-point between our houses. Now we’ve ended up across the country together, still living about half a mile apart, and still meeting up with each other at the mid-point between our apartments. Thankfully, many other things about us have changed over the years (no more pastel scrunchies, braces, or in my case, permed hair matched with dangly tropical fish earrings).
So, Zuni. I had been forewarned. In spite of all the buzzing at IACP, a subsequent informal survey of the trustworthy eaters in my life produced the occasional rave, but more frequently a generous helping of apathy. “Inconsistent” and “underwhelming” were two common descriptions.
Atmospherically speaking, I give Zuni very high marks. It didn’t hurt that we had a fabulous table next to a big window looking out on Market St., right in the center of the action. The space is open, airy and bustling. I remember wood and white, and a pretty oyster bar.
I also give it a good grade for people-watching potential. It does feel like a generous slice of San Francisco life -- fashionably casual, quirky, sophisticated, but not super snooty. In fact, food aside, to me Zuni exuded a rich, well-loved feeling that you can’t construct in a place. It just has to happen.
But then the food happened. What can I say? I wanted to love it, I really did. I wanted to adopt Zuni and take it to meet my friends and relatives when they come from out of town looking for a representative San Francisco gustatory experience. But dinner was a big, mouth-wide-open yaaaawwwwnnn. A starter of ho hum anchovies (or were they sardines? It was a few weeks back...), olive oil and celery that didn’t taste like much. Stuffed squash blossoms that also didn’t taste like much. A pleasant piece of pork rubbed with a nice crust of dried orange, chilies and spices, on a lukewarm plate with some blah-tasting beans. The ideas were there and it all sounded great on paper…but somehow it just didn’t have any heart.

Yeah, we didn't order the roast chicken. We debated over it, but when we asked the server she said, "Well, it's good, but in the end, it's a roast chicken. If you want adventure, order something else." Fair enough. Also, apparently we made a grave mistake by not ordering any oysters. I am told that they are delicious at Zuni. Duly noted.

By this point, I was feeling a little deflated. And then… dessert arrived with a capital D. It was simple, perfectly executed, gorgeous. A nectarine tart and a nice deep dish of espresso granita layered with robust poofs of whipped cream. I doubt I will ever have another granita that wows me as much as that one did. Come to think of it, granita had never once wowed me until Zuni's version crunched under my spoon.
After dinner, we headed around the corner to Hotel Biron, the first wine bar I've visited in this city. We settled into our table with lovely, giant glasses of red and kept the conversation going. As far as I'm concerned, my wine bar search began and ended with Hotel Biron. It felt like a cozy little cave, complete with perfect music and a cute, hipster guy behind the bar.
After our topsy turvy dinner, I'm not yet prepared to strike Zuni off the master mental restaurant list that constantly hums in my head. Problem is, there are so many intriguing places to try in San Francisco that it may take a long time for me to get back there. But next time I do, that damned roasted chicken and oysters will be on my order. Then we'll see whether there's anything worth kvetching about.
14 Comments:
I've never had a "knock-yer-socks-off" meal at Zuni. But I know plenty of others who rave about it. I do think ordering the right thing probably has something to do with it.
When I go to Zuni, I always order the same thing: Caesar Salad, French Fries, Roast Chicken, and Martinis (gin, of course...anything else is not a martini).
I like that little wine bar too!
Cindy, I cant help but reflect on that evening we shared at my pad after the food poisoning. Remember the pretzels? You said you hadn't eaten a pretzel in over 6 months. And remember we went through the beginning of 2 other movies before we finally decided only Vin could properly entertain us in our hour of need? "Get that ASS MOVING!" We'll always have Vin darling, we'll always have Vin..
Oh right, this post was about Zuni, not about us. But what the heck.
I love the roast chicken at Zuni. I love the atmosphere. I would go again and order roast chicken again! My dad used to say always order the restaurant's specialty.
Try again, m'dear :-)
Awww, I'm sorry Zuni didn't come up to snuff on your visit. I agree with David though, and I think a lot of us wind up with our favorite things that we just adore at Zuni -- the chicken, the rabbit, the FRIES. I have a secret theory that having impromptu meals there makes it all taste better too. Maybe try this: On a midweek night, when you're tired and frustrated with work, slip into the bar and snag a table (somehow there always seems to be one within a few mintues, you'll be amazed), order a margarita and the chicken and kick back.
Ok you guys, I promise to return! In fact, I will be in the area tonight...maybe a little solo meal at the bar is in order. One woman and a whole roast chicken.
And a martini.
Michele, isn't every post about us in the end? I mean really. ;) And Vin.
I'll second that caesar salad rec. and the oysters. (but then, if they're fresh and well selected, is an oyster every anything less than sublime? no preparation, really . . . )
Zuni is excellent for a few things: oysters, ceasar salad, roast chicken, and shoestring potatoes. I have always been disappointed when I've strayed from those items.
don't listen to me - i love that anchovy starter. I have only liked anchovies since the beginning of this year and Zuni's understated version with the celery works perfectly for me. I think the rest of the menu can be hit and miss, but i still love the place. Just about everywhere I go is a hit and miss, this is just a better hit and miss than most.
forget to try their cramamel pot de creme at your peril. that's is my favourite thing there, when they have it. the chocolate version is nowhere near as good.
Hey Moxie and Catherine -
Okay, next time I will order the requisite things and hopefully fall in love.
But it does beg the question: if you can only be guaranteed to swoon by eating extremely specific things on a restaurant's menu, what's going on back in that kitchen?
I mean, I'm all for going with the specialty of the house ...but I usually don't need to apply that policy in upscale restaurants like Zuni. What gives?
Hiya Sam -
You are absolutely right, the anchovies are understated. Gentle, even. I suspect my taste buds are blown out and probably by the time I'm old I'll need to eat my food directly off a salt lick to get my flavor fix. So, there's that to ponder in my assessment as well...
:)
Caramel pot de creme sounds sublime. Would it be burnt caramel, by any chance? Because if so, I might have to go there directly after work to try it.
Yeah, if those are the only things they do well, then why don't they just serve those things? I had a mediocre experience there, too. The bar is lovely, but there are so many other wonderful restaurants in San Francisco, why would I bother going back?
Hmmm...and I was about to suggest we go there for dinner! Thanks for the test drive, it'll move Zuni lower on my ladder of places to try.
I have been to Zuni twice. The first time, I ordered something completely unmemorable, but one of my fellow diners ordered the hamburger, which was served with giant hulking slices of heirloom tomatoes on focaccia bread, and the bite I had was kind of orgasmic. The next time I went back there, I ordered the burger, of course, and the bread was a bit stale, and the tomatoes were small and limp. So, yeah. I second the "inconsistent" part.
wow! just amazing....
the roast chicken!
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